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	<title>quality &#8211; Wade Tregaskis</title>
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	<title>quality &#8211; Wade Tregaskis</title>
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		<title>Z9 first impressions</title>
		<link>https://wadetregaskis.com/z9-first-impressions/</link>
					<comments>https://wadetregaskis.com/z9-first-impressions/#comments</comments>
		
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		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2022 02:24:14 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Photography]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[autofocus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ergonomics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nikon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[performance]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quality]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Z9]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://blog.wadetregaskis.com/?p=4917</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[For context, I&#8217;m coming most recently from a Z7, but before that I used a D500 for several years (occasionally with the battery grip). I&#8217;ve also had experience with the D800, D850, and a number of smaller DX bodies &#8211; D7100, D5500, D5200, D3200, etc. My Z9 has firmware version 1.11. Note also that I&#8217;ve&#8230; <a class="read-more-link" href="https://wadetregaskis.com/z9-first-impressions/" data-wpel-link="internal">Read more</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<p>For context, I&#8217;m coming most recently from a Z7, but before that I used a D500 for several years (occasionally with the battery grip).  I&#8217;ve also had experience with the D800, D850, and a number of smaller DX bodies &#8211; D7100, D5500, D5200, D3200, etc.</p>



<p>My Z9 has firmware version 1.11.</p>



<p>Note also that I&#8217;ve read &amp; watched practically everything out there so far on the Z9, and have no desire to repeat what&#8217;s already been covered to death.  I&#8217;m only noting here things that surprised me or otherwise weren&#8217;t well-covered elsewhere.  That tends to mean oddities or negative things &#8211; but to be clear, my overall impression is very positive; there&#8217;s a <em>lot</em> to like about this camera, it&#8217;s just that most of that&#8217;s been heavily documented already.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="ergonomics">Ergonomics</h2>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>It&#8217;s heavy.  Dense.  I thought I&#8217;d be fine with the weight and was actually only worried about the volume, but in practice it&#8217;s the opposite.<br><br>The size is fine &#8211; not great; smaller would be nice of course, but the Z7 plus a reliable GPS unit in the hotshoe has basically the same bounding box as the Z9, so the Z9 is effectively no larger for my purposes.<br><br>The difference is of course most pronounced with baby lenses like the 24-70/4.  With the Sigma 105/1.4 on it, it&#8217;s not <em>that</em> different to with the Z7.  Similarly if you stick a telephoto on it, e.g. a 150-600, the perceived difference vs the Z7 is pretty minor.  Still, for casual &#8216;walkabout&#8217; use, with a small lens like a 24-70 or 24-120, I&#8217;m a bit concerned.<br><br>I&#8217;d assumed it was the bigger battery that contributed a lot of that extra weight, but actually the battery is pretty light.  Also much smaller than I&#8217;d assumed.</li>
</ul>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full is-resized"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" width="4446" height="3984" src="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/EN-EL18d.avif" alt="" class="wp-image-4932" style="width:512px;height:459px" srcset="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/EN-EL18d.avif 4446w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/EN-EL18d-512x459@2x.avif 1024w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/EN-EL18d-2048x1835.avif 2048w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/EN-EL18d-256x229.avif 256w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/EN-EL18d-512x459.avif 512w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/EN-EL18d-2048x1835@2x.avif 4096w" sizes="(max-width: 4446px) 100vw, 4446px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">165 grams according to my kitchen scales.  Only 12% of the overall package.</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<ul class="wp-block-list" id="block-a14fc85c-05ed-4836-9dbd-db5699e21f46">
<li>The grips are a bit big.  I&#8217;m a guy with fairly large hands, too.  It&#8217;s similar to the large DSLRs (e.g D500).  I know when I went from those to the Z7 I thought the Z7 grip was too small at first, but I very quickly got used to it.  I do think the Z7 grip is a tad smaller than ideal &#8211; and certainly too short vertically, as my pinky finger inevitably ends up <em>below</em> the Z7 rather than holding it &#8211; but overall it&#8217;s closer to ideal than the Z9.<br><br>Holding the Z7 feels like you&#8217;re holding something <em>precise</em>, albeit a bit diminutive, whereas holding the Z9 is like holding a literal brick.<br><br>That said, I&#8217;m expecting I&#8217;ll get used to it.</li>



<li>The dpad feels kinda stiff. It&#8217;s a tad difficult to actually press (and yet feels quite mushy). Not great.</li>



<li>The control wheels are much nicer than the Z7 ones. The Z7 ones <em>feel</em> nice, at <em>first</em>, but they&#8217;re metal and relatively sharp and I know from uncomfortable experience that they can cause blisters on your fingers. The Z9 brings back the rubberised DSLR-style control wheels, which don&#8217;t feel as fancy but are much better for heavy use.</li>
</ul>



<div class="wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex">
<div class="wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow" style="flex-basis:50%"><div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full is-resized"><img decoding="async" width="1011" height="511" src="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Z7-control-wheel.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-4934" style="width:378px;height:192px" srcset="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Z7-control-wheel.webp 1011w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Z7-control-wheel-256x129.webp 256w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Z7-control-wheel-512x259.webp 512w" sizes="(max-width: 1011px) 100vw, 1011px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Z7 control wheel</figcaption></figure>
</div></div>



<div class="wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow" style="flex-basis:50%"><div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full is-resized"><img decoding="async" width="877" height="398" src="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Z9-control-wheel.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-4935" style="width:439px;height:199px" srcset="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Z9-control-wheel.webp 877w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Z9-control-wheel-256x116.webp 256w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Z9-control-wheel-512x232.webp 512w" sizes="(max-width: 877px) 100vw, 877px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Z9 control wheel</figcaption></figure>
</div></div>
</div>



<ul class="wp-block-list" id="block-8ed82eb2-f3f3-4c11-8bb2-54a6cb780d10">
<li>I&#8217;d read some complaints that the memory card door is difficult to open, especially one-handed, but it&#8217;s completely trivial &#8211; push the slider down, then push it left, then just let go and the spring-loaded door opens itself.  It takes literally just one finger.  Can you finger-paint an L?  Then you can open the memory card door.<br><br>It&#8217;s much easier to open &amp; close than a GoPro case, for example.  Possibly <em>too</em> easy, if the goal is to prevent accidental openings.</li>
</ul>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full is-resized"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2560" height="1834" src="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Screen-Shot-2022-01-28-at-5.43.48-pm.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-4941" style="width:512px;height:367px" srcset="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Screen-Shot-2022-01-28-at-5.43.48-pm.webp 2560w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Screen-Shot-2022-01-28-at-5.43.48-pm-scaled-1024x734.webp 1024w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Screen-Shot-2022-01-28-at-5.43.48-pm-scaled-2048x1467.webp 2048w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Screen-Shot-2022-01-28-at-5.43.48-pm-scaled-256x183.webp 256w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Screen-Shot-2022-01-28-at-5.43.48-pm-scaled-512x367.webp 512w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px" /></figure>
</div>


<ul class="wp-block-list" id="block-512662f7-6cde-4e44-99df-41ca2f7ddecd">
<li>I&#8217;ve almost always used pure electronic shutter mode on the Z7, for the peace &amp; quiet, but even so it&#8217;s still noticeably harder to tell that you&#8217;re taking photos with the Z9. I assume because of the complete lack of blackout [most of the time]. Even with the flashing indicators enabled.<br><br>[Follow-up:  case in point, I went to the zoo a few days ago and unintentionally took <em>8,000</em> photos!  That&#8217;s about 10x what I would have taken with e.g. the Z7, or even the D500.  It&#8217;s <em>so</em> easy to suddenly have thousands of photos without really noticing.  Granted I only kept ~1,500 after culling blurry &amp; duplicate ones, but the culling process alone took a few hours.  The Z9 needs to come with little minions to help manage the output. 😜]</li>



<li>The camera gets warm when recording video (8k/30 and 4k/30 at least) or bursting at 20+ FPS, in a cold room. Not hot, but it does make me a little concerned about over-heating in hot environments. We&#8217;ll have to see.</li>



<li>The EVF is visibly low resolution, just like the Z7 &#8211; by which I mean you can see the individual pixels. But honestly I&#8217;ve never really felt this was a <em>practical</em> problem &#8211; how sharp the EVF is has no bearing on how sharp &amp; correctly focused the actual photo is.<br><br>A sharper EVF (and LCD) would certainly be nice, no mistake &#8211; I certainly prefer &#8220;Retina&#8221; displays over their pixellated forebearers &#8211; but it&#8217;s not a big deal despite what so many others claim.<br><br>The EVF still looks better than the cheap, shitty LCD displays most of the world use on their computers.<br><br>One purported problem with the low resolution of the EVF is in judging focus accuracy. I think the impact is small if not completely insignificant. There are much better ways to check focus accuracy &#8211; e.g. digitally magnifying the view (I assign one of the function buttons to jump to 200%). These are much more effective and indeed necessary if you actually care &#8211; with 45 MP no human eye can check critical focus without zooming in <em>a lot</em>.</li>
</ul>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="performance">Performance</h2>



<p>This section is <em>particularly</em> preliminary since it&#8217;s based on just a couple of hours of use, and this aspect is inherently hard to judge.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading" id="burst-shooting">Burst shooting</h3>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>As <a rel="noreferrer noopener external" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6R9Y9KYf8I" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external">others have recently noted</a>, if you use shutter speeds below 1/250 you don&#8217;t actually get 20 FPS. It drops first to 15 FPS and then about 10 FPS at 1/30, etc. That&#8217;s disappointing &#8211; <em>most</em> of the time I&#8217;m using less than 1/250, so it appears I&#8217;m rarely going to see the claimed 20 FPS.<br><br>It&#8217;s also weird that in 30 FPS JPEG mode it&#8217;s not limited until 1/50 or below.</li>



<li>The buffer depth is better than I expected based on other people&#8217;s tests, possibly because most tests to date were done with 1.00 firmware &#8211; <a rel="noreferrer noopener external" href="https://learn.mattgranger.com/courses/CFXB" data-type="URL" data-id="https://learn.mattgranger.com/courses/CFXB" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external">Matt Granger&#8217;s results</a> show a huge improvement with 1.11 and his numbers match mine for the one card we have in common, the <a rel="noreferrer noopener external" href="https://www.amazon.com/ProGrade-Digital-256GB-CFexpress-Memory/dp/B0863981FZ?crid=27ZJVACBX8L4G&amp;keywords=ProGrade+256GB&amp;qid=1643403180&amp;sprefix=prograde+256gb%2Caps%2C147&amp;sr=8-5&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=wasbl08-20&amp;linkId=fdae30dc09d38bdcae62403588dba26b&amp;language=en_US&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.amazon.com/ProGrade-Digital-256GB-CFexpress-Memory/dp/B0863981FZ?crid=27ZJVACBX8L4G&amp;keywords=ProGrade+256GB&amp;qid=1643403180&amp;sprefix=prograde+256gb%2Caps%2C147&amp;sr=8-5&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=wasbl08-20&amp;linkId=fdae30dc09d38bdcae62403588dba26b&amp;language=en_US&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external">ProGrade 256GB</a>.  Or maybe folks were using the HDMI output simultaneously, which <a rel="noreferrer noopener external" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSuLvkYR0fs" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSuLvkYR0fs" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external">Matt Granger also documented</a> as having a significant negative effect on buffer depth.<br><br>I get at least 50 HE* photos at 20 FPS before any slowdown, even with a <a rel="noreferrer noopener external" href="https://www.amazon.com/PERGEAR-Type-B-Memory-Compatible-Panasonic/dp/B08TH5N442?crid=1VOBCUN9VOUOS&amp;keywords=pergear+512&amp;qid=1643401751&amp;sprefix=pergear+51%2Caps%2C197&amp;sr=8-1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=wasbl08-20&amp;linkId=144e7de83cecbba490ee05d5d6a1beb6&amp;language=en_US&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl" data-type="URL" data-id="https://www.amazon.com/PERGEAR-Type-B-Memory-Compatible-Panasonic/dp/B08TH5N442?crid=1VOBCUN9VOUOS&amp;keywords=pergear+512&amp;qid=1643401751&amp;sprefix=pergear+51%2Caps%2C197&amp;sr=8-1&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=wasbl08-20&amp;linkId=144e7de83cecbba490ee05d5d6a1beb6&amp;language=en_US&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl" target="_blank" data-wpel-link="external">Pergear 512GB CFExpress card</a> which is probably one of the slowest available (it&#8217;s optimised for $/GB, not performance).<br><br>I was anticipating &#8220;having to&#8221; buy a performance CFExpress card, but after these initial tests I&#8217;m not sure it&#8217;s necessary at all.  It looks like I can easily take 900+ photos a minute if I want, which is already way more than I should be encouraged to, given I have to sort through them later.</li>
</ul>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full is-resized"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1556" height="1604" src="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Pergear-512-GB-CFExpress-Card-Blackmagic-Disk-Speed-Test.webp" alt="" class="wp-image-4938" style="width:778px;height:802px" srcset="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Pergear-512-GB-CFExpress-Card-Blackmagic-Disk-Speed-Test.webp 1556w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Pergear-512-GB-CFExpress-Card-Blackmagic-Disk-Speed-Test-993x1024.webp 993w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Pergear-512-GB-CFExpress-Card-Blackmagic-Disk-Speed-Test-248x256.webp 248w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Pergear-512-GB-CFExpress-Card-Blackmagic-Disk-Speed-Test-497x512.webp 497w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Pergear-512-GB-CFExpress-Card-Blackmagic-Disk-Speed-Test-248x256@2x.webp 496w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Pergear-512-GB-CFExpress-Card-Blackmagic-Disk-Speed-Test-497x512@2x.webp 994w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1556px) 100vw, 1556px" /></figure>
</div>


<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>The buffer depth increases to 80-110 when dropping to 15 FPS. At 10 FPS it is effectively infinite, even with my slowest cards. That&#8217;s nice &#8211; it essentially matches the D500 in this respect, at least &#8211; and the D500 could only achieve an infinite buffer with (for its time) high-end CFExpress cards.</li>
</ul>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading" id="autofocus">Autofocus</h3>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>Autofocus in low light is definitely better than with the Z7, but it still has plenty of room for improvement (which is not to say any other camera is better &#8211; I&#8217;m pretty sure no camera has what I&#8217;d consider truly <em>good</em> low-light AF, yet).<br><br>e.g. it still basically can&#8217;t focus <em>at all</em> in my TV room [with the 24-70/4], which is a somewhat dim room but not dark by any means &#8211; I could sit there and read a printed book just fine, for example.  Most of the time it just hunts endlessly.  Subject recognition doesn&#8217;t work at all.<br><br>The Z7 fails even harder &#8211; it often doesn&#8217;t even <em>try</em> hunting, it just outright refuses to engage the focus motor.<br><br>The D500 can focus in similar light in the same room &#8211; the D500 is <em>impressive</em> in low-light AF ability, though it tends to over-estimate itself even so; it&#8217;ll show a green &#8220;got it!&#8221; focus indicator but the actual photos will quite often show that it missed.  Still, it would at least get <em>some</em> in-focus photos, where the Z9 cannot.<br><br>It&#8217;s worth noting that my <em>iPhone</em> 11 can autofocus decently in these same conditions &#8211; faster &amp; more reliably than any of these &#8220;real&#8221; cameras.  Admittedly it has a wider field of view with much deeper depth of field, so it doesn&#8217;t have to be as accurate.  But still.<br><br>In brighter (but still interior) lighting, the Z9 suddenly starts working and works really quite well, at least for stationary or slow-moving subjects.  The transition from basically not working to working well is surprisingly sharp.</li>



<li>I haven&#8217;t really tested it yet, but AF accuracy with a subject moving at non-trivial speed &#8211; i.e. my cat trotting towards the camera &#8211; isn&#8217;t great at first blush.  The majority of photos have focus completely missing the head, let-alone the eyes.  Oddly focus bounces in &amp; out between every frame, like it&#8217;s hunting.  The D500 would tend to hit or miss in longer batches.  The Z9 is clearly superior here, since having every other photo in focus is <em>way</em> better for capturing a decent moment than missing ten in a row.<br><br>The 24-70/4 might be a factor in this, of course.  Though it seems to have pretty snappy AF, in my experience.<br><br>The Z7 wouldn&#8217;t have managed <em>any</em> photos in focus, except maybe by dumb coincident luck, so it&#8217;s a very clear improvement over that at least.</li>



<li>Subject recognition doesn&#8217;t work for close subjects, e.g. when the face fills the frame.  At least for cats.  It stops recognising that it&#8217;s even a face, let-alone picking out the eyes.  It then tends to focus on merely whatever&#8217;s nearest, e.g. the tip of the nose.</li>
</ul>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="2048" height="1365" src="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/unnamed-file.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-4946" srcset="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/unnamed-file-1024x683@2x.jpg 2048w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/unnamed-file-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/unnamed-file-256x171.jpg 256w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/unnamed-file-256x171@2x.jpg 512w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">No faces or eyes to see here &#8211; move along.  Note: taken using single-point AF manually placed on the right eye &#8211; auto-area AF focused only on the nose, and I deleted all those dud photos before thinking I should save one for demonstration purposes.</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>Eye AF consistently front-focuses, because it favours the eyelashes or eyebrows (particularly for animals) over the iris. When depth of field isn&#8217;t able to cover this up &#8211; e.g. close distances or wide apertures &#8211; it&#8217;s really obvious, because the Z9 is so consistent with focusing on the wrong thing. A more &#8220;manual&#8221; focus mode has to be used instead, like single-point AF.</li>
</ul>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-full is-resized"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="1024" src="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Eyebrow-AF.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-4928" style="width:512px;height:512px" srcset="https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Eyebrow-AF.jpg 1024w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Eyebrow-AF-256x256.jpg 256w, https://wadetregaskis.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/Eyebrow-AF-256x256@2x.jpg 512w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>
</div>


<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>The AF system continues to not be able to distinguish stuffed toys from real animals. It was a bit stubborn about focusing on a stuffed lion&#8217;s face rather than my actual cat, for example. Not a real-world concern for me, of course, but kind of amusing.</li>



<li>Auto-area AF looks much more promising, at this early stage, than the Z7 (or any DSLRs).  So far it&#8217;s been pretty reliable about finding the subject (usually my cat, thus far). Not <em>perfect</em>, for sure, but good enough that I&#8217;m not frustrated.<br><br>For <em>years</em> I almost exclusively used single-point AF on the Z7 because frankly it was the only AF area mode that was usable (with 1.00 firmware). Recently I tried experimenting again, and was quite pleasantly surprised that its other AF modes have been made actually somewhat usable by its firmware updates.  I&#8217;ve even been dabbling with auto-area AF, in certain easy situations.  But it&#8217;s immediately obvious that the Z9 is much better.</li>



<li>Subject detection sometimes finds &#8220;subjects&#8221; in bizarre places, like random patches of couch fabric or shadows on a bean bag chair.  <br><br>This would be insignificant if it weren&#8217;t for the fact that 3D tracking will <em>always</em> try to track the nearest detected subject &#8211; anywhere in the frame, irrespective of where you place the tracking box.  So if it detects a non-existent subject &#8211; or in any case if you just want to have it track something specific &#8211; you have to dive into the menus to disable subject detection entirely.  Slow and annoying.<br><br>If I place the tracking box over a detected subject and press AF-ON, sure, it should use its subject tracking smarts.  Otherwise, it should just do what it&#8217;s told and stop trying to be &#8220;helpful&#8221;.</li>



<li>So far, 3D tracking doesn&#8217;t seem dramatically better than the D500, but I haven&#8217;t tested it much in real-world conditions. It&#8217;s nice to have it back, and I will be testing it further in various conditions, but I&#8217;ve already seen the hallmark flakiness in some cases &#8211; e.g. where it just immediately loses the subject and focuses randomly on something else.<br><br>I think Nikon&#8217;s subject tracking, as on e.g. the D500, has always been rather over-rated. But it does work well sometimes and is super nice when it works.</li>



<li>I&#8217;ve noticed that the Z9 tries very hard to be &#8220;sticky&#8221;, even with &#8220;Blocked Shot AF Response&#8221; set to 1 (Quick).  But if you release AF-ON and press it again, it <em>instantly</em> refocuses on whatever&#8217;s under the AF box.  This makes some sense, I guess, but I&#8217;m going to have to train myself to feather the AF-ON button.  I wish when you set it to &#8216;Quick&#8217; it would just always focus on whatever is under the AF box.<br><br>In auto-area AF and similar modes (as opposed to single-point) it consequently still exhibits some of that annoying behaviour where it loses the subject, focuses on the background, and is then too slow to refocus on the subject.<br><br>Still, that you can re-press the AF-ON button and have it do what you want is a big improvement from the Z7, which would often stubbornly refuse to refocus on the subject until you <em>manually</em> adjusted focus to be on the right subject (and even then it would sometimes obstinately refocus immediately on the background again).</li>
</ul>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading" id="image-stabilisation">Image stabilisation</h3>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>Image stabilisation doesn&#8217;t seem any different from the Z7 &#8211; which is to say it&#8217;s good, but could be better.  e.g. ¼s exposures hand-held at 70mm still have a low success rate.  I might be seeing more interesting (positive) results with the 105/2.8, that supports the enhanced &#8220;Synchro VR&#8221;, but it&#8217;s a bit early to tell.</li>
</ul>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading" id="responsiveness">Responsiveness</h3>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>There&#8217;s a noticeable delay &#8211; half a second or so &#8211; for the Z9 to turn on and be ready to use.  It&#8217;s faster than the Z7, but far from the instantaneous that many reviewers have been claiming.<br><br>That&#8217;s with all the &#8216;slowdowns&#8217; disabled, like the sensor shield and restoring AF position.  Enabling those doesn&#8217;t actually make much difference, as far as I could tell.</li>



<li>It&#8217;s occasionally a little slow when doing certain things in video mode, e.g. immediately after you stop recording it can take a moment or two to start responding to the controls again.<br><br>The Z7 is similar.  The DSLRs might have been better &#8211; I don&#8217;t remember, but in any case it&#8217;s largely irrelevant given how bad they were at video (e.g. unusable AF, no viewfinder support, etc).<br><br>One thing the Z7 was infuriating about was taking up to ten seconds after burst shooting before it&#8217;d let you switch into video mode, seemingly because it refuses to switch modes until its buffer is empty.  I don&#8217;t yet know if the Z9 suffers from this too, but because the Z9 buffer clears quite quickly, it&#8217;ll hopefully prove far less annoying even if it does.</li>



<li>The GUI feels snappier than the Z7, but I haven&#8217;t compared them side-by-side yet.  I mainly feel like image review is significantly swifter &#8211; zooming in on a photo is instantaneous, whereas the Z7 usually takes a moment.  Skipping rapidly back and forth between photos is also instantaneous, whereas the Z7 had just a bit of delay.  Overall it&#8217;s subtle but the effect is to make the Z9 feel significantly more powerful.</li>



<li>It&#8217;s subtle if present, but it <em>feels</em> like the scene view (on LCD and EVF) has less latency than the Z7.  The AF indicators do lag the subject / camera movement, but it&#8217;s only significant if you have very fast movement, and I don&#8217;t yet know if it actually impacts focus accuracy.<br><br>It&#8217;s subtle enough that if I didn&#8217;t already know Nikon are claiming improvements in EVF latency, I wonder if I&#8217;d have noticed anything at all.</li>



<li>The EVF &amp; LCD lag significantly in some situations, involving slow shutter speeds (e.g. 1/10) and/or low light.  Similar to the Z7 (and my iPhone, for that matter).  To be clear, this is when <em>not</em> taking any photos, just looking at the screens.  I think most cameras do this &#8211; I guess they figure it&#8217;s better to lower the refresh rate than have [more] noise in the image preview.</li>



<li>The 60 Hz &#8220;limit&#8221; of the EVF &amp; LCD doesn&#8217;t seem problematic to me.  I have various devices with 120 Hz displays (e.g. my iPad) but frankly I&#8217;ve never seen any meaningful difference.  But I haven&#8217;t used an EVF with a refresh rate higher than 120 Hz, so I guess I can&#8217;t be sure.</li>
</ul>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="video-quality">Video quality</h2>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>The oversampled 4k (30 FPS or lower in FX mode) is very nice, at least in H.265 10-bit HLG (I haven&#8217;t played as much with other video formats).<br><br>There&#8217;s no mistaking that it has been processed &#8211; it&#8217;s definitely a little crunchy if you look closely, and especially if you compare vs the 8k down-sampled in playback.  The 8k does contain more genuine detail &#8211; though not 4x as much, by any stretch &#8211; and looks much more natural with no evidence of artificial sharpening.<br><br>It reminds me a bit of the results from recent iPhones in their &#8220;Deep Fusion&#8221; mode, though not as strong (thankfully).<br><br>The processing settings &#8211; including several aspects of sharpening &#8211; are configurable in strength, but I haven&#8217;t played with that yet.  I&#8217;m pretty comfortable with the defaults (I intend to use the over-sampled 4k mode, as opposed to 8k mode, when I want quick results that don&#8217;t require post-processing).</li>
</ul>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="reliability">Reliability</h2>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>As hoped, the Z9 has yet to fail to take a photo when told to (other than in contrived, pathological cases like after filling the buffer with an 800-photo burst).  It&#8217;s <em>clearly</em> better than the Z7.  Which is a low bar, of course.  The Z7 is a very unreliable camera for <em>actually taking photos</em>, thanks to its anaemic buffer and slow image processing.  I&#8217;m hoping that continues to hold true in more demanding testing &#8211; I&#8217;ve missed the D500, which was the first and (&#8217;til now) <em>only</em> camera I ever used where you could trust that it would work when you pressed the shutter button.</li>
</ul>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="connectivity">Connectivity</h2>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>Pairing with Snapbridge on my iPhone went fine.  The process is a bit inelegant, but no different than with any other Nikon cameras, and worked first time.</li>



<li>Snapbridge is very snappy for camera remote control.  I&#8217;m not sure how it compares with the Z7 as honestly I&#8217;ve virtually never used the Snapbridge app, but I was impressed with how low-latency it is (and laughed that you can use it to control the camera&#8217;s LCD in playback mode &#8211; I&#8217;m not sure what the <em>point</em> of that is but it&#8217;s amusing).</li>



<li>Image download over wifi to an iPhone is pretty slow.  About ten to fifteen seconds per ~50MB image.  I don&#8217;t recall if that&#8217;s different from the Z7 &#8211; but I remember when image download was only supported over <em>Bluetooth</em>, and <em>that</em> was excruciating… something like up to a minute per <em>2MB</em> image.  So progress, I guess, though still inexplicably slow.</li>



<li>It refuses to charge at all over USB from some chargers &#8211; including chargers that work just fine with the Z7.  I&#8217;m guessing it requires some minimum wattage that exceeds what basic USB power bricks can provide.  Not a big deal, but a tad disappointing (I&#8217;d be fine with it charging slowly, as long as it still <em>charged</em>).</li>
</ul>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="factory-settings">Factory settings</h2>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>GPS is off by default and the UI is surprisingly unintuitive about it &#8211; it took me an hour and several attempts before I finally confirmed that it was off and figured out how to enable it.<br><br>I guess I can understand why it might be off by default, given its potential for significant battery drain, but then standby power saving mode is <em>disabled</em> by default, and that has a much bigger negative impact.</li>



<li>Standby power saving mode is disabled by default.  This makes the camera consume a noticeable amount of power when switched on but not being used.<br><br>This makes some sense as a default, I suppose &#8211; standby mode presumably incurs some delay when you snap the camera out of it, which the nominal audience for this camera might hate.  But I was surprised to see 10% of the battery disappear just because I left the camera sitting on a desk for an hour without formally switching it off.  This was never a problem on the Z7 or any of the DSLRs &#8211; though admittedly the Z7 has a noticeable, annoying delay to wake up from standby.</li>



<li>The video format settings are just stupid by default &#8211; 4k/30 H.265 8-bit (SDR), if I remember correctly.  They should be 8k/30 H.265 10-bit with HLG or N-log enabled (or ProRes &#8211; not my preference but I could at least respect that choice).</li>



<li>With HLG in use the video display is flat by default.  And the preference for fixing that is really obtusely named &#8211; &#8220;View Assist&#8221; &#8211; and buried in Custom Settings &gt; Video &gt; g8.  For someone that wants to use HDR simply to get better dynamic range, I see no point in making the live preview ugly as a side-effect.</li>



<li>AF is set to single point by default.  Not a big deal, but kinda weird for this camera in particular &#8211; a major point of the Z9 was its new &#8220;handle anything&#8221; auto-area AF, so I&#8217;d expect that to be selected by default.</li>



<li>Video AF is set to AF-F by default… I do actually use that <em>occasionally</em>, but I&#8217;d be surprised if so-called video professionals use it much at all &#8211; unless you&#8217;re a Youtuber you know that shifting focus during a scene is to be done carefully and <em>rarely</em>.  AF-C makes much more sense to me.</li>
</ul>
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